Ikkattooq Hut on the Arctic Circle Trail
Pingu, Greenland
I remove my clothing and waterproof my gear in preparation for the deepest and most dangerous river crossing on the hike. It’s time to get wet!
DAY 7: Ikkattooq to Eqalugaarniarfik (and beyond)
Hiking Distance 19 km (12 miles) | 8 hours
But before we get to the river, let me tell you about an interesting Danish couple I met at the Ikkattooq cabin. We chatted for a few hours before night fell, hiding out from the storm overhead.
Fleming & Ellen have hiked the Arctic Circle Trail 6 times now.
They’re both 70 years old. And if that wasn’t enough to impress you, they’ve also trekked completely across Greenland and its vast icecap! An astonishing feat that takes a month to accomplish pulling two sleds full of food & gear over the ice.
These guys have hiked to Everest Base Camp, climbed Mount Blanc, and are some seriously bad-ass senior citizen adventurers. Plus, they didn’t even get into trekking until they were in their 40’s.
It’s never too late to try something new & challenging.
Meet Fleming & Ellen from Denmark
A Cold Early Morning Start
Greenland’s Mosquitos
The next morning we part ways and I start to climb over a steep ridge in crisp 38 degree mountain air. From there the trail winds down into a huge valley. Descending to the river below is when the first mosquitos begin to attack.
Greenland has a big mosquito problem.
They breed in the many lakes & ponds scattered across the landscape, feeding on the reindeer population. But mosquitos are hatching earlier and earlier each year — which many scientists attribute to rising temperatures & global warming.
When hiking the Arctic Circle Trail in June or July, these epic swarms are out in force. Wearing a mosquito headnet is essential for keeping your sanity.
By mid August most of them die off due to colder night temperatures. I still encountered small swarms over bogs & marshy areas of the trail. These little insects are a huge pain in the ass!
More Reindeer Bones
Let’s Get Wet!
Naked River Crossing
The valley surrounds Ole’s Lakseelv, the widest & deepest river on the Arctic Circle Trail. The local name for it is Itinneq. There are two ways to cross.
You can get wet and ford right through, or take a longer detour to a wooden bridge that was built nearby. In the early spring or after a lot of rain the river level can be high, up to your chest.
However in mid August, knee or thigh-high is more common.
I was determined to ford right through. But because it had rained the night before, I wasn’t sure how deep it would be.
To be safe, I stripped down to my birthday suit and waterproofed my pack by lining it with heavy duty garbage bags. The source of all this water is Greenland’s ice cap, so you can imagine how cold it is!
Slowly & carefully I maneuver my way across the river using trekking poles for support. The icy water reached the top of my thighs at its deepest point. Safely on the opposite bank I dry off, repack, and continue into the valley.
Can You Spot the Cabin?
Into the Wild
Reconnecting With Nature
The trail rises up into the rocky mountains again towards Eqalugaarniarfik Hut after the river. I encounter my 6th reindeer along the way and stop for a while to watch her graze.
There’s nothing like a shoes off, socks off, lay in the grass break every 1-2 hours to keep you fresh and rested on a long-distance trek. It’s been about a week since I’ve had to respond to email, write blog posts, edit photos, or stay active on social media — and I don’t miss it.
While I love my job working as a professional blogger, being online all the time takes its toll. This journey into Greenland’s wilderness on my own with no distractions feels like a proper vacation.
I pass Eqalugaarniarfik Hut and hike uphill on an old snowmobile track lined with white-tipped cotton grass blowing in the wind. Turning to watch the little red building shrink in the distance.
Lakes Around Every Corner
Camping in the Mountains
DAY 8: Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattoq (and beyond)
Hiking Distance 19 km (12 miles) | 7 hours
The wind picks up but I manage to find a decent camping spot sheltered by hills on all sides. Pitching my Hyperlite Mountain Gear Echo II tent over a berry patch beside a small pond as a pair of snow-white arctic hares watch from rocks nearby.
Mosquitos wake me up the next morning, and I’m packed up and on the trail around 9am after munching on wild berries for breakfast.
The path continues over a mountainous region dotted with lakes. Small patches of permanent snow can be seen on the peaks above. You can imagine how the ice carved out this landscape as it moved through the valleys.
At the first of the 2 Innajuattoq huts I stop to take an afternoon nap surrounded by the rugged Taseeqqap Saqqaa mountain range. Walking down to the 2nd, larger hut I discover my Danish friends Fleming & Ellen who’d passed me as I slept.
They show me where to cross the river ahead as it leaves a lake. I hike on ahead of them — they choose to end their day early at the cabin.
Another River Crossing
Red Painted Cairn Marks the Route
The Reindeer Family
Suddenly I see 2 reindeer 50 yards to my left. Then 3 more, including a baby. It’s a whole family! I carefully take off my bright orange backpack, pull out my camera, and crawl on my stomach up a hill commando style to try and capture photos before they spot me.
This is the closest they’ve been, and I get great shots.
Then the wind shifts and one of the males smells me (easy to do after a week with no shower) and sounds the alarm by grunting to the others who quickly take off in all directions.
Greenland’s arctic tundra is covered in flowers during the spring & summer. Purple, blue, red, pink, yellow. I’m not sure what the names are — my favorite is a little red one that looks like it belongs in a Dr. Seuss book.
The trail passes through a forest at one point too! Well, what seems like a forest by Greenland’s standards. A grove of dwarf willow trees 6-7 feet high.
Dr. Seuss Flowers
Sneaking Up on Reindeer
Campfire Fail
Dark clouds move in and the wind picks up as the sun sets, and I scramble to locate a good campsite. I stumble upon a dry and flat tent pitch but it’s exposed to the cold wind pushing up the valley ahead.
Luckily there are loose rocks all over the place — perfect for building a makeshift wind-break in front of my tent. I attempt to light a fire using fluffy cotton grass & twigs I’d collected earlier, but the wind is just too strong.
This is why I love emergency space blankets.
You never know when they’ll come in handy. I always pack a multi-use version for long hikes, which I now wrap around my sleeping bag to aid with the wind sneaking under the lightweight tarp tent.
It’s a long and cold night, but I manage to get some sleep while dreaming of the huge musk-ox steak I’m going to devour when I finally reach Sisimiut.
I wake to find a thick fog hanging over the valley. Onward! ★
READ NEXT: Complete Travel Gear Guide
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.
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